Feliz Navidad! Christmas in Mexico

Feliz Navidad! Christmas in Mexico

The night may or may not be holy, depending on your belief system, but it will definitely not be silent. I’ve learned from my time in Mexico to expect Christmas Eve, Noche Buena, to be the noisiest night of the year. In that peculiarly Latino…
Copper Canyon.

Copper Canyon: Into the Deep

“There’s a canyon in northern Mexico, bigger and deeper than the Grand Canyon…” I’d heard this years before I came to live in Mexico. So when some American friends said they wanted to visit Copper Canyon, we decided to rendezvous…

Best of the Maya Part VI: What Happened?

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What Went Wrong? The 64,000 cocoa question (for a time the Maya used chocolate as currency!) is what went wrong? What caused this highly developed, safisticated and scientific culture to collapse? Scholars have proposed various theories all…
Chichén Itzá

Chichén Itzá: Best of the Maya Part V

Entering Chichén Itzá, the visitor is immediately confronted with a pyramid so striking it encapsulates what most of us think of when we think of Mesoamerican ruins. But El Castillo is more than just a perfect pyramid, it is actually a giant…

Uxmal: Best of the Maya Part IV

Less likely to appear in one of those cable channel documentaries, or on the cover of a guidebook or the travel agency poster, Uxmal is the least well known of the Mayan sites mentioned in this series. That does not mean that you will be in…

Palenque: Best of the Maya Part III

Palenque If you are only going to see one Mayan site in your life, I would recommend Palenque. With its gleaming white lime stone buildings, intact roof combs, intricately carved stele and lively jungle atmosphere, Palenque has it all. It’s…
Rick Steves

Salute to Rick Steves

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“Europe is ruined.” Thus pronounced a friend of a friend. Her complaint was one that many of us relate to. We want to be the lone traveler who has found our way to this quaint, unknown and oh-so-charming village. Trouble is, the village is…
Aztec Calendar

Mexico's National Museum of Anthropology

The couple I was traveling with had worked themselves up into a bit of a spat by the time we reached Mexico City. He was rabid to see everything. She was having stomach problems and wanted to be comfortable. It was beginning to look as if we…

People of the Corn

Two worlds collide.  The Old one brings the New one an array of gifts: Christianity, guns, horses, Small Pox and steel weapons, changing the fate of it’s people forever.  And what history-changing items did the New World give to the Old?…
Lucha Libre masks.

¡Vive Lucha Libre!

“We’re going where?” I asked.  I’m always up for new things, but this seemed a little incongruent.  Here was my cultured, sophisticated, intellectual guy, a man who reads in three languages, a classical musician, a connoisseur of art…